In early February, Kyoto transforms for Setsubun, a festival marking the literal "division of seasons" as the lunar calendar shifts from winter to spring. Historically, this transition was believed to be a time when the spirit world and the human world overlapped, allowing malevolent spirits known as oni (demons) to slip through the cracks. To counter this, the ancient ritual of Mamemaki was established during the Heian period. You will see crowds of locals tossing roasted soybeans while shouting "Oni wa soto! Fuku wa uchi!" (Demons out! Fortune in!), a practice rooted in the belief that beans, symbolizing "demon eyes", can physically drive away misfortune and illness.

The centerpiece of the event is the legend of the Tsuina, an ancient court exorcism rite first recorded in the eighth century. You will see performers dressed as terrifying, multi-eyed figures known as Hososhi, masked protectors who traditionally carried a spear and shield to hunt down spirits. These guardians eventually evolved into the colorful Oni you see today, which represent human vices like greed and anger. One specific local ritual you shouldn't miss is the burning of charms or old talismans in massive communal bonfires, a symbolic "clearing of the slate" intended to incinerate the bad luck of the previous year.

To ensure your luck holds for 2026, you must take part in the Eho-maki tradition. This involves eating a giant, uncut sushi roll in total silence while facing the year’s "lucky" compass direction. Cutting the roll is strictly forbidden as it symbolically "cuts" your fortune, and speaking during the process allows your luck to escape. For a final bit of protection, look for the Hiiragi Iwashi, a dried sardine head skewered on a holly branch, displayed outside doors. The legend says the prickly leaves poke the demons' eyes while the smell of the fish keeps them away, making it one of the most unique, albeit pungent, sights of the festival.